In the Beginning, There Was Phébé…

The Arts, Town Happenings

FANtasy: The Mona Lee Nesseth Fan Collection

“Phébé” Hand Fan, France, circa 1880s. Custom designed for Phoebe Apperson Hearst “philanthropist and education advocate, member of the legendary publishing dynasty and mother to William Randolph Hearst. It is an incredible example of Alexandre’s work,  and an object with a remarkable provenance.”  Gift of Mona Nesseth to FIDM. Photo by Harold & Erica Van Pelt

Inspired by her joy of discovery and exhilaration for the hunt, Mona Lee Nesseth embarked on a global quest for exemplary fans to fulfill her collecting “Wish List.” The Mona Lee Nesseth Fan Collection began with “Phébé,” a donationin 2013 to the FIDM Museum at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising. This hand-made lace fan incorporates a mother-of-pearl monture (the sticks that unfold to shape the fan) carved with goddesses and a bevy of playful putti. The lead guard (the outer most protective stick) is emblazoned with a diamond-encrusted signature: Phébé Handcraftedby Félix Alexandre in Paris, France, this circa 1875-1885 fan most likely belonged to Phoebe Apperson Hearst, mother of publishing magnate William Randolph Hearst.

Sylvain Le Guen, Maître d’art, “Eventailliste”. His new fan, commissioned back in 2018, will be unveiled as part of “The Mona Lee Nesseth Fan Collection” this September

Another extraordinary fan on display was specially commissioned in 2018 from Sylvain Le Guen, France’s leading Maître d’Art(Master Fan Maker), and took a year to create. The custom-designed masterpiece of white mother-of-pearl and black ebony sticks supports aglistening laméchiffon leaf with silk chiffon appliqués opening up in a 3D pop-up style. It is embroidered with pearlescent spangles, crystals, glitter, mica powder, and mother-of-pearl flakes.

Fan Photo of Crying Cat by Adolphe Thomasse for Duvelleroy, France Circa 1905
Tabby Cat Fan front/Photo by Orasa Weldon
Tabby Cat Fan
Peacock Fan Le Paon by Adolphe Thomasse, Circa 1905/Photo by Orasa Weldon

The Nesseth Collection also gathered an expressive menagerie of antique fans by the Belle Époquepainter Adolphe Thomasse. Famous for his portrayals of animals on fans for Maison Duvelleroy, the celebrated, centuries-old Paris establishment, the gallery will share space with two canines, two felines, and a proud peacock.

“Le Triomphe d’Amphitrite” combines the artistry of three adept Masters. Gustave Lasellaz painted the fan leaf vignette, portrays Amphitrite escorted by fantastical sea nymphs, cherubs and dolphins. Sculptor, Jules Vaillant expertly carved the Mother of Pearl Monture, dominated by the countenance of Poseidon. The lace maker is anonymous. France, c.1890-1900.FIDM Museum Purchase: Funds donated by Martha Nesseth and Mona Lee Nesseth. 2019.5.9AB. Photographer: Aya Matsumoto/Coutau-Bégarie Paris Auction House

Undoubtedly, the star of the exhibition is Le Triomphe d’Amphitrite, an astonishing fan also made in Paris between 1890 and 1900. The special piece combines the artistry of three adept masters. Adrian Rodien directed the design and workmanship of this creation for the renowned Maison Rodien.  Gustave Lasellaz painted the leaf vignette that portrays Amphitrite, wife of Greek god of the seas, Poseidon, escorted by fantastical sea nymphs and dolphins. Finally, sculptor Jules Vaillant expertly carved the mother-of-pearl monture dominated by the countenance of Poseidon himself.

FANtasy: The Mona Lee Nesseth Fan Collection,is open free to the public from September 6, 2019 to June 11, 2020, at the FIDM Irvine Campus Gallery, 17590 Gillette Avenue, Irvine, California, 92614.  Call 949-851-6200 for an appointment.